So I have a JANSJÖ LED work lamp from IKEA in Copper , I bought this ages ago before i knew of my deep love for this precious metal (unfortunately it is currently only available in Black and white in the UK).
The lamp pictured above (From 'Cult Furniture') is stunning but I felt it gave off more of a retro feel, so I thought I would transform my old lamp into a new and exciting luxe version. Here it is in it's original state, sitting upon the IKEA Malm Dresser, which I cannot wait to share its make over in a later installment in this blog series....
Here is everything I used:
- Work Lamp- Sugar Soap and Microfibre Cloth
- Contact paper Application Kit (I purchased mine from Wilko)
- D-C Fix Self Adhesive 'Original Marmi' Film
- Scissors (not pictured)
- Screw driver (not pictured)
- Pen (not pictured) This DIY project was so straight-forward because I didn't do to much to the lamp. It was to have a simple elegance about it with a touch of Luxe.
1. So this particular lamp has screws that go through the bottom of the base to hold the light in place. Remove all the hardware with a screw driver to prepare the base for cleaning.
2. Grab your cloth and using soapy water or sugar soap de-grease the base. Make sure the base is dry, all residue is removed and set your cloth aside.
3. Next, is to get your Self-Adhesive film and roll it out just a little larger than your lamp base and place it on the film ready to trace.- Not forgetting to have the film backing facing up and the base flipped over to get an exact size.
4. Trace your shape out with a pen/pencil (Don't mind me while I state the obvious)
5. Setting the base to one side, cut the tracing out of the film with your scissors or a rotary blade( which is best for a square shape)
6. Now this is where the fun begins.... Making sure your application kit is within easy reach, pick up your cut out and turn it over so that the film side is now facing up. Finding an edge to start from, lift a small amount of backing from the film.
7.Taking the small exposed part of the film and place it on the base starting from the edge. - At this point you should lay the rest of the cut out down over the base to see if it lines up throughout. You'll be able to reposition if it doesn't but it's always better to try and lay the film down the once.
8. Once you have made sure everything will line up, begin to lift the backing whilst using your 'smoother' from the app. kit to smooth the film with your other hand.
Air bubbles may occur during application, the best way to avoid this is to smooth the film in quick succession to lifting the backing. This doesn't allow any bubbles to get trapped or At least it decreases the chances of multiple.
If you do get them you can either lift back up the film and relay it again or you can use a small pin to pop little air ducts so the bubbles deflate and I mean small otherwise the holes could show up. Smooth again to get the air out.
Time for precision and patience, haha! This is where the precision knife from your app. kit comes in handy and of course a steady hand helps.
9. Taking to the edges of the newly covered base to neaten the edges of the film. Glide the knife in a slanted position along the edge. Try to take off as much as you can with one stroke so that you can achieve a more uniform finish.
- As my base was curved at the edge I didn't want to try to wrap it round, so when I applied the film I didn't adhere the edges, making it easier to take off with the knife for a cleaner finish.
10. The project is nearing it's big reveal but everything needs to be put together first. Before this happens, wherever the hardware was removed from, need holes to be made for it to pass through the film. Use a pen/pencil/screwdriver to pierce where the pre-existing holes are.
11. Start by screwing the light back into the base, making sure to secure all the hardware.
12. You may want to spray paint the other part in a different colour. I may, at a later date give it a coat of copper spray paint to bring about a brighter tone but for now I'm very happy with the finished look. If you do spray paint your lamp make sure everything else is sealed away with painters tape, to prevent any paint getting on it, including the light if it's fixed.
- I went back in with my precision knife to clean up the edge of the film, thats the perfectionist niggling at me but overall I am happy with the finished look. Simply Luxe!😊
Most work lamps like this have a base that can detach from the actual light. If your base is fixed to the light and you want to get this look you can achieve this by cutting the circle/square in half and adhering the cut pieces onto the base to work around the light, ensuring the pieces butt up together, leaving no gaps.
Well that wasn't so bad, next up The 'Hammered Copper' Dresser ...